Differing Design Practices - From Materials to Drawing

Every jewellery designer and maker has their own way of working - their unique combination of ideas regarding materials, techniques, and working methods defines their individual studio practices. That said thetend to arrive at a design by one of two ways: either through experimentation with materials and exploring techniques, or starting from visual research and designing through drawing. 

Visual research involves close observation and deconstruction of an item or theme to its smallest part. Sometimes this involves a maker going down the proverbial rabbit hole doing a deep dive into a particular subject, other times it is a theme that is revisited over time before finally making its way to the workshop.

For example Inga Reed takes inspiration from her natural surroundings: Her workshop window sills are filled with nuts, pods, leaves and seed-heads gathered from the garden and local hedgerows. She is particularly interested in their complex organic structures and uses precious metals and stones to interpret these forms. Enquiry through drawing is a vital part of Inga’s practice and each range or unique piece is preceded by many hours of drawing to solve design and technical issues.

Interestingly Kayo Saito’s workshop is similar to Inga’s in that it is also strewn with nuts pods, leaves and seed heads gathered from her natural environment. However Kayo forgoes the sketchbook and heads straight from object to replicating elements in paper. This allows her to push the boundaries of light and fragility in her jewellery. Her challenge then is to discover techniques required to replicate the designs in metal to create durable and wearable pieces whilst maintaining the delicate character and textures of the original paper design.

Despite the differeing approaches to design it is interestign to see that both makers arrive at bold designs with a minimalist aire:

Inga’s work is crisp and clean, presenting abstractions of the original inspiration. Her bold hollow forms are meticulously executed, embellished with embossed patterns and using mixed metals. The overall impression is a wonderful balance of bold forms and minimalist detail.

Kayo’s sculptural work is more ornate and organic - leaving the viewer wondering how she managed to capture the original quite so closely in metals. Delicate elements are clustered and layered into sculptural pieces, the repetition creating pattern and lush texture on the 3-dimensional structures. Nevertheless the pieces retain an aire of simplicity and minimalism.

Curious to find out more? Book your appointment to see Inga Reed and Kayo Saitos work in person at DesignYard.